Antico Caffè Tre Marie was inaugurated in L’Aquila, a prologue to the reopening of the famous restaurant: the event follows recent historic verdict in Spain by the European Intellectual Property Court
At 6 pm on Thursday 21 July, Antico Caffè Tre Marie was inaugurated in L’Aquila, at 1 pm on Via Tre Marie. It is only the prologue to the forthcoming reopening of the historic Tre Marie restaurant, known all over the world, not only for its excellent cuisine, but above all for being a place of extraordinary presence and meetings: rulers and writers, rulers and directors, actresses and singers, poets and musicians, the most diverse and excellent humanity in the world of literature, theater, music, film, politics and institutions, entertainment and international culture. A few years ago he made a magnificent and exciting review of it, spiced with anecdotes and surprising revelations, the author writes Errico Centofanti in the volume “Quel Ramo di Mandorlo” (One Group Edizioni, 2011, L’Aquila), which collects known and unpublished stories but above all the very detailed trusts of Paolo Scipioni, the last in the family of restaurateurs who have made Tre Marie famous quality brand, efficiency and discretion, but also a crossroads for an extraordinary range of outstanding customers, part of L’Aquila’s history but not only.
With “Quel Ramo di Mandorlo”, Centofanti has given back to L’Aquila a wonderful piece of history, just at the moment when memory became a fundamental part of rebirth. The main character is accurate historic Tre Marie Restaurant of the Scipioni family – a place that has become part of the country’s monumental heritage – with facts and characters that marked an era that transformed this place of taste and good food into a temple of culture and the transmission of values. A place among the most famous and most coveted, for a century, whose fame bounced from the most selective gastronomic guides to prestigious newspapers, such as the New York Times. To denote the deep bond with Mother Earth that the best ingredients in his kitchen came from, his ancestor Don Peppe Scipioni placed a almond branch. Hence the title of the book, a real treasure trove of valuable surprises, as captivating as and more than a novel. A book that is a cultural journey for the soul, full of emotions, of history, not just civic, of good L’Aquila traditions, of customs and traditions, through episodes of city life, anecdotes, facts and characters that have animated the legendary venue , crossroads encounters between famous personalities and guardians of important parts of the history and culture of the city and of Italy.
The volume tells of 20th century enthusiasm, utopias and tragedies, from the perspective of those who have seen them, through unknown or little known episodes, around sensational cooking recipes and unprecedented events involving personalities from the most diverse worlds, including, just to name a few, here are some names in strict alphabetical order: Anouk Aimée, Giulio Andreotti, Michelangelo Antonioni, Pippo Baudo, Carmelo Bene, Nicola Bulgari, Luigi Carnacina, Primo Carnera, Liliana Cavani, Adriano Celentano, Fausto Coppi, Jacques Delors, Vittorio De Sica, Aldo Fabrizi, Fellini from Egypt, Federico Fracci, Dario Fo, Richard Gere, Gustavo Adolfo of Sweden, Ugo La Malfa, Gino Marotta, Maurizio Micheli, Sandra Milo, Alberto Moravia, Pietro Nenni, Philippe Noiret, David Oistrach, Pier Paolo Pasolini, Goffredo Petrassi, Ettore Petrolini, Gigi Proietti , Anthony Quinn, Mickey Rourke, Arthur Rubinstein, Dina Sassoli, Oscar Luigi Scalfaro, Andrés Segovia, Paride Stefanini, Palmiro Togliatti, Ugo Tognazzi, Alida Valli, Paolo Villaggio, Herbert von Karajan, Valerio Zurlini.
Returns to current events, today it opensAntico Caffè Tre Marie, which will be followed by the famous restaurant, with the bubbly Alido Venturi, director of Gioel Holding who took over the property from the Scipioni family, no matter how happy when a long-forced wish comes true. Yes, because two events since the purchase of Three Marys have marked the turbulent events for years: on the one hand, the April 6, 2009 earthquake and the laborious methods of rebuilding the premises, as well as the entire neighborhood, from another unfortunate legal case that was finally resolved in Alicante, Spain, with the final judgment of the European Intellectual Property Court (EUIPO). No one will therefore ever be able to erase the three Mariana from the history of L’Aquila and from life in the capital Abruzzo. This is confirmed by the judges of EUIPO’s fourth appeals division, which is based in the Spanish city of Alicante.
The legal action taken by the English law firm was based on the claim that the inactivity was due to the lack of interest in the property, as it would have been possible to transfer the restaurant to any other location in the EU. Instead, the judges at EUIPO in Alicante fully accepted the defense essay that Alido Venturi, Director of Gioel Holding, could propose, also thanks to the help of lawyers Lucia Granieri and Massimo Cimoli from the law firm De Simone & Partners in Rome, specializing in international trademark protection and patent, and by the lawyer Luciano Dell’Orso. The proposed argument thus becomes a new important principle in the European context, recognizing the unreasonableness of moving an activity such as that of Three Marys, characterized by the restaurant’s exceptional and historical reputation and the relevant artistic-cultural value, elsewhere both by the building in which the activity takes place and of the antique art furnishings contained therein. The sentence acknowledges, literally, that the three Mariana form an “indivisible whole”, that is, “a single indivisible whole” that arises from the “unique combination of regional gastronomy, arts, crafts and historic building”, which had already been recognized with the demo – ethno – anthropological restriction decreed in 2021 by the Ministry of Cultural Heritage and Activities, which only very few realities in Italian catering can boast, a restriction added to the historical – artistic imposed in 1986. In essence, the validity of the “Tre Marie” and “Antico Caffè Tre Marie” marks has been confirmed by the European Union Catering and Hotel Services Office and, with it, the solid reputation of the Tre Marie restaurant in L’Aquila, also as the inextricable link between the restaurant, the mark “Tre Marie” and the L’Aquila area. And this for the benefit of the whole society which will not be “forced” to give up an important collector of historical, artistic and gastronomic culture. The reason for the decision lies in the very clear words of the decision of the European Appeals Commission, which reformed the decision of the Court of First Instance of the Cancellation Division, which acknowledged the uniqueness of the Tre Marie restaurant. In fact, the decision reads: “Not only does the restaurant have a long and consolidated historical reputation, but also the building where it is housed together with the café is extremely rich given its historical heritage: the place and the restaurant form a whole. Therefore, there is no doubt that the historical reputation of the restaurant and its monumental building has really created a sufficiently close connection with the services in class 43 (restaurants and hotels, ed.) to motivate the CTM owner’s business strategy to invest everything in this historic place (…) ».
“Given the exceptional historical reputation of the ‘Tre Marie’ restaurant – the judgment also reports – and the very important cultural heritage, as well as its artistic value, change the business strategy and offer the disputed services in Classe 43 in another city and in a other building would have been totally unreasonable.The unique combination of regional gastronomy, crafts, historic buildings, convincingly presented by the trademark owner and certified by the Ministry of Cultural Heritage and Activities and Tourism, forms an indivisible whole.The European Agency therefore agrees that in the light of the specific circumstances of this case, a business strategy other than the resumption of operations in its original place would have seriously jeopardized the EUTM holder by jeopardizing the value of the brand and investment, in order to preserve the uniqueness of the historic site ».
EUIPO’s decision gives back to the whole city an icon of collective cultural identity and finally allows the property to work with peace and quiet on the reopening of what has over the years established itself not only as a restaurant but also as a real temple of gastronomy and hospitality . Therefore, Alido Venturi’s satisfaction is legitimate. He commented on the sentence as follows: “The decision of the EUIPO Board of Appeal finally does justice to a painful affair. After the earthquake on April 6, 2009, and in the midst of the renovation of the building that hosted it for a century, the historic restaurant Tre Marie, a true icon of a society still at the bottom of the earthquake, had to defend itself from an action on termination of non-use of the trademark. The request was made by an English law firm, ie a subject who, without having any institutional interest in acquiring the rights to use the trademark, must necessarily have acted on behalf of someone who preferred to remain anonymous. We believe that the sentence – added Venturi – even before we accepted our legal reasons, confirmed a business ethics principle that should inspire everyone who does business. As soon as we returned to the availability of the property, we started working to restore an activity that will not be lost: very soon we will reopen a cocktail bar / café which, like a bridge leading back in time, we hope will be able to take with the most young people in the restaurant, who will return to see the light in the following months ».
L’Aquila will soon be able to bring back the historic restaurant Tre Marie, full of its excellence and functionality, in recent years interested in a valuable and well-kept architectural restoration from the damage that the earthquake in 2009 inflicted on it, both on the wall construction and on the valuable furniture and works of art. The glorious history of Tre Maria, well within the history of the city, will therefore be able to resume its current journey to write other brilliant pages about gastronomic excellence, city history, customs and beauty in the broadest sense.